Tag Archive for: Eco-conscious lifestyle

WIN A BRAND NEW EZE RYDERS ELECTRIC BIKE!

PRIZES INCLUDE:

1 FREE BIKE ($699 value)

4 FREE RENTALS (includes 2 bikes, 2 helmets, 2 locks)

BONUS! ALL MONTHLY MEMBERS GET 2 FOR 1 RENTALS WHEN THEY SHOW THEIR MEMBERSHIP

EZE Ryders is San Diego’s newest Electric Mobility shop offering Onewheel, E-Skate, and Electric Bike Sales, Rentals, Service located near Ocean Beach in Point Loma – 4051 Voltaire St

EVERY CLASS YOU TAKE IN THE MONTH OF MAY COUNTS TOWARD THE DRAWING TO WIN!

CONTEST RUNS MAY 1ST – 31ST

How can I win a brand new EZERYDERS electric bike? COME TAKE A YOGA CLASS at Yoga Six !

E-Bike Batteries, Riding Ranges and Motors

Manufacturers devote a lot of attention to the power plant in each bike. The design trade off is performance versus riding range. A more powerful motor delivers more speed for keeping up with traffic and more torque for climbing hills and hauling cargo. A more powerful motor also burns up the battery faster, reducing your riding range.

When comparing prospective e-bikes, you’ll see broad riding-range specs: 20-100 pedal-assisted miles, for example. That’s because so many variables affect riding range.

Having a big battery helps, of course: Capacities are stated in watt hours (Wh), the number of hours a battery can sustain 1 watt of power before dying. Thus motor power also matters: A 500-watt motor paired with a 500 Wh battery (a common class 3 bike setup) drains power more quickly than a 250-watt motor with a 500 Wh battery (a common class 1 bike setup).

For regulatory reasons, electric bikes are divided into classes that denote their level of motor assistance. Figuring out which class of e-bike you need is a key decision point:

     

  • Class 1: The motor kicks in only while you’re actively pedaling, and the motor assist stops when you reach 20 mph.
  • Class 2 (not sold by REI): Has a pedal-assist mode up to 20 mph; it also offers a throttle-only mode. (No other class of e-bike offers this mode.)
  • Class 3: Works like Class 1 (pedal assist only), but the motor won’t stop assisting until you reach 28 mph.
  • Class 1 e-bikes are the most universally accepted. That’s one reason why they are also the most popular choice. But class 1 bikes aren’t allowed on all bike paths, especially ones where the speed limit is 15 mph. Some mountain-bike trail systems also forbid all classes of e-bikes, though access is generally beginning to open up for class 1 e-bikes.

    Class 2 e-bikes are banned in many places. Any mountain bike trail where motor-powered vehicles are prohibited also won’t allow class 2 e-bikes. City streets and off-road vehicle areas are your only sure bet for class 2 access.

    Class 3 e-bikes are primarily allowed on city streets. The greater speed their motor assist provides, though, can be an advantage when you want to keep up with vehicle traffic when you commute or run errands on your e-bike.

    While it does differ from riding a regular bike, most e-bike newbies get the hang of it quickly. Typically, it only takes one test ride for the body’s muscle memory to adapt to the feel of a pedal-assist machine.

    Keep the following tips in mind when you first start riding an e-bike:

    • Brake earlier because e-bikes are heavier (and faster). Pedal-assist power overcomes the sluggishness that a heavier bike might have, but a fast-moving weighty mass also requires an attentive brake hand. E-bikes come with robust brake systems to help, but you still have to be on top of your riding game.
    • Ride with a faster cadence. An e-bike is most efficient when pedaled at a faster cadence than is typically used on a regular bike, especially when climbing hills. It’s not that you can’t have a lower cadence, it’s just that your e-bike rides more smoothly and gets better battery life if you spin the pedals faster. So get used to using lower gears.
    • Ride in low-assist modes as much as possible. Motor settings range from “eco” to “turbo” (terms vary), with one or two in between. Mode choice has a direct effect on battery life—riding range—so the more you ride in eco mode, the better. Save turbo for when you truly need it. If you feel eco isn’t helping much, try riding with the motor switched off—eco will feel zippy after that. Less assist from the motor also means you get a better workout.